The Delights of Dresden

A few months ago, I was just like you. When I thought of the town of Dresden, black and white images of devastation from the TV documentary ‘A World at War,’ filled my mind. But I recently met Professor Dr. Gregor J. M. Weber, who worked at the Alte Meister Gallery in Dresden and he extolled the artistic and architectural beauties of this beguiling city. Christmas approaching, I booked a flight with small but friendly and efficient, Darwin Airlines.

During my research for the trip I discovered, oh joy of joys, that one of my favourite Tales From Europe was filmed at Moritzburg Castle, just a short bus ride from Dresden. Three Gifts for Cinderella has always stayed in my memory, associated with halcyon days of childhood; I suspect because Cinderella had a horse and she liked hunting and jumping in the forest! She was pretty handy with a bow and arrow too. A sort of seventies Katniss Everdeen…

We stayed in the Baroque Quarter which is a desirable neighbourhood in Dresden Neustadt on the banks of the River Elbe. Our apartment was on the fourth floor and we enjoyed wonderful sunrises and sunsets over Dresden’s skyline. Neustadt was burnt down in the 17th century, was rebuilt and has since been known since as the New Town although in fact it’s older than the Old Town, if you get my drift.

You can’t go far in the city without coming across the former ruler of Saxony, Augustus the Strong. How shall we put it – Augustus was a little bit fond of himself and enjoyed spending lavishly on art and porcelain. Augustus the Strong and his successors with their skill, artistry and determination filled the Grüne Gewölbe (Green Vault) and Türckische Cammer (Turkish Chamber) with treasures from all over the world, collected paintings and porcelain, and were patrons of the great composers. No wonder then that Dresden today ranks as a world-class city of art and culture.

The main sights are; The Church of Our Lady (Frauenkirche), Royal Palace, Zwinger, Semper Opera House, Elbe castles, Villa Quarter, Hellerau garden city – not forgetting the ‘Blue Wonder’ bridge to the east of the city centre, so named because it survived the bombardment.

Although Dresden is a big city (big as Manchester in UK) it’s very tranquil and calm. Even amongst the crowds of tourists on the Christmas markets I didn’t feel rushed or harassed; neither did my husband and he has a low threshold for the crush of shoppers. Public transport is cheap and easy to use. Eating out is also considerably cheaper there, as are wine and food in the supermarkets. Make it a New Year’s resolution, go visit this marvellous city and banish those war-ravaged images from your head. A weekend is not really long enough, four or five nights would be ideal.

 

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Rotterdam, Rotterzwam and Shimmy Shake Festival

A couple of weekends ago I visited Rotterdam. I went to see a performance in the Shimmy Shake Festival at the Maaspodium. Shimmy Shake is an organisation that supports new and emerging belly dance forms. It was a spectacular evening showcasing not only up-and-coming talent but also some big names in the world of belly dance fusion, Sharon Kihara was the headline act but the evening also included top Dutch belly dancers, and my personal favourite, Rachid Alexander. Rachid is one of Holland’s best known male belly dancers and has been featured on Holland heeft Talent. He has wonderful stage presence and a mind-boggling flexibility and fluidity.

In the morning Frank and I went to Rotterzwam, which is a business set up by two entrepreneurs. We had crowd-funded the enterprise and went to pick up our DIY mushroom kit. What does this business entail? The two business partners and their team collect coffee grounds from local businesses in Rotterdam and in an abandoned building, propagate and grow mushrooms in the fertile coffee grounds. Their business is run on the principle of the Blue Economy which tries to reduce food miles and keep business benefits within the local community. Their business location, Tropicana was a former swimming paradise with sliding chutes, whirlpools, beauty spa, changing rooms; the whole works. Visiting it now is a surreal experience. Several times I felt I had stumbled into a science fiction film set, human creativity and ingenuity emerging from the ruins of some unspeakable disaster; in fact a metaphor for the phoenix-like city of Rotterdam itself. The guided tour was informative and hunger inducing so we also lunched at the former Tropicana restaurant. I had Canterel mushrooms on toast; they were delicious.

We booked an Airbnb room in a family home in the Delfshaven area of Rotterdam where the Dutch founding fathers set sail for America. Much of Rotterdam was bombed during the WWII but picturesque Delfshaven has survived. For an Amsterdammer it was a bit coals to Newcastle but worth a visit nonetheless. Hearing the bells from The Pilgrim Fathers’ Church was especially poignant.

The sculpture, De Verwoeste Stad (the devastated city) tells Rotterdam’s story of destruction and resurrection better than any words can. This eloquent and visceral sculpture was made in 1951 by Ossip Zakdine. It was removed from its original setting outside Central Station in 2007 and is now displayed in the much more suitable Plein 1940.

To round the weekend off we went up the Rotterdam Euromast and got breathtaking views of the city from a rotating glass lift. There is so much to see and do in Rotterdam, in fact I’ve already booked myself in to abseil 185 metres down the Euromast next summer 😉 Believe that and you’ll believe anything…

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Meet the Head of Fine and Decorative Arts at the Rijksmuseum

During a recent serendipitous encounter I had the good fortune to meet Professor Dr. Gregor J. M. Weber, Head of Fine and Decorative Arts at the Rijksmuseum. Rembrandt: The late works is currently showing at the National Gallery in London and Professor Dr. Weber was closely involved in its realisation. Don’t worry if you can’t make it to London because in February 2015 the exhibition, Late Rembrandt will be opening at the Rijksmuseum. The show in London has had fabulous reviews so I urge you to go and see the exhibition when it comes to Amsterdam. I have also been reliably informed that there will be four extra Rembrandt’s to admire in the Dutch exhibition! Be sure not to miss it and buy tickets via this link, well in advance.

Gregor Weber is a modest man who usually stays out of the limelight but he has been kind enough to show us a glimpse of the man behind the curator.

Professor Dr. Gregor J. M. Weber

Professor Dr. Gregor J. M. Weber

What made you decide to become a curator?
During my childhood in Germany, I was surrounded by art. Whenever we went on holiday my family and I visited galleries and churches filled with decorative arts, paintings and sculptures. My father also asked a local artist to create paintings for us to hang in the family home. When I was about fifteen years old my father received a book about Pieter Breughel. I was so enchanted by his paintings and the magical world he portrayed that I travelled to Antwerp and Brussels to see Breughel’s work for real. I will never forget the frisson of excitement when I surreptitiously touched a Breughel painting for the first time.

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What do you love about your job?
A curator decides about restorations, hangings, selections and acquisitions; dealing very closely with the objects that one loves. But one should be careful not to identify too much with ‘your’ collection. I know some curators who suffered a lot after retiring because they were separated from their ‘friends’. Others linked their self-esteem to the number of Titian, Raphael or Rembrandt paintings they had the pleasure to administrate. But this is as dangerous as it is ridiculous – only if you really know a lot about these paintings and artists and if you can effectively share this knowledge with the public and your colleagues, then perhaps you can become a sort of spokesperson for the art.
Having such an extensive knowledge of art history, whenever I am in the great cities of the world; Venice, London, Florence and Amsterdam I can see those places through the eyes of great painters that have lived and worked there. It’s time-travelling but without the aid of a time-machine.

What do you like least about your job?
When you have twenty or more curators reporting to you, you end up working more for them than for yourself, but that’s something that comes with the job and is only right and proper. I have fortunately done very well in my career and sometimes that means my job is more administrative than I would like. But I do try and stay abreast with my field of science: staying in touch with students, colleagues, etc. Talking about art and not only administrating it!

Which is your favourite Rembrandt painting? Why?
Hm, it depends on my mood, the weather, or just how I feel on that day. It’s the same with music, sometimes I listen to Lady Gaga, other times I listen to Pergolesi.

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However, one of my favourite Rembrandt paintings is the Blessing of Jacob from the museum in Kassel. It is a very emotional painting. Rembrandt plays down the conflict in the story. (Joseph is worried about the blessing because he thinks his father Jacob is making a mistake.) Rembrandt chose a moment when Joseph is supporting his father while he blesses the grandchildren – so the harmony in the family is underlined, not the conflict that all other painters have depicted before and after Rembrandt.

Which is your favourite film and/or book?
Do you know the film by Ariane Mnouchkine about Moliére? I think it changed my life, the settings, characters and music transport one to another plane of being. The film is also full of references to famous paintings. An actress is lit like Vermeer’s Girl With a Pearl Earring, Moliére’s childhood room is based on a painting by Pieter de Hooch. If you can recognise all these references then the film gains extra layers of meaning.

The last book I read was by Jonas Jonasson, The Hundred-Year-Old Man Who Climbed Out the Window and Disappeared. It’s entertaining as well as sympathetic. It encourages the reader to copy the protagonist and jump headlong into adventures, go to foreign climes and start anew!

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An unexpected fact about yourself?
At the age of fourteen I switched from piano lessons to organ lessons. I was an organist in our local church; playing almost every afternoon and occasionally giving concerts. But this is a long time ago, now I’m happy with my piano in Amsterdam. But another thing – and I know only one other person who can do this – I can write without hesitation in mirror script. It is just a question of turning the words around in my head, and it’s very useful for keeping a confidential diary!

Which is your favourite city? Why?
I love living in the Netherlands and above all in Amsterdam. It is a beautiful city, full of fine architecture. And the water makes it very liveable. The reflections and humidity create a special kind of light. In my house on the ring of canals I enjoy contemplating the wave-like reflections of the water on my ceiling. It’s enriching. Maybe later I would like to live in a quieter city like Delft, Amsterdam is busy and overcrowded at times. But for now I love its vivid character, the young people and the tourists from all over the world!

Late Rembrandt runs from 12 February – 17 May 2015 at the Rijksmuseum.

 

Embed from Getty Images
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Tiptoe Through the Tombstones

Pumpkins, spiders and zombies galore! Halloween is coming up. Did you know that the original Hallowmas, (the evening before the Christian festival of All Hallows) was a time to remember deceased loved ones or saints. It had nothing to do with vampires, ghosts or Egyptian mummies. Even if you don’t believe in an afterlife, most of us take flowers to relatives’ graves, or keep photos and mementoes of people and pets we once shared our lives with. It seems strange to think of the dead only on one particular day of the year; not many days go by when I don’t think of the people and animals I have loved and lost. This article on Open Learn gives insight into the original meaning of All Hallows.

Tranquil Places
I’ve always felt quite at home in graveyards. Cemeteries can offer peace and respite from the hustle and bustle of an urban environment.

One of my favourite quiet places in Amsterdam is the graveyard, Huis te Vraag, in Oud Zuid. It has the same tranquillity that can be found in a rambling country churchyard in England. Walking amongst the overgrown ivy and looking at the lichen-covered headstones fills me with peace, as if I’ve stumbled through some magical door into another world.

The hubbub of the city has repeatedly tried but failed to encroach on this oasis of stillness. Spring, summer, autumn, winter remains hauntingly beautiful throughout the seasons. There was some talk of it being sold but that is thankfully no longer on the cards. Visit the website Huis te Vraag for more about its history and for contact info. (In Dutch.)

Practical info
The graveyard is open to visitors on Tuesdays thru Fridays from 11am-5pm. In the winter months gates are locked at 4pm. Closed on Sundays and Bank Holidays. Address is, Rijnsburgstraat 51, 1059 AT Amsterdam. Link to Google Maps here.

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Dufy, Laren and Tarts from the Shire

An exhibition of Dufy’s painting and textiles is currently showing at the Singer museum in Laren until 11 Jan 2015. Raoul Dufy (1877 – 1953) was a French Fauvist painter. He developed a colourful, decorative style that became fashionable for designs of ceramics and textiles, as well as decorative schemes for public buildings.

Joie de Vivre
Unlike so many painters, Dufy didn’t suffer from artistic angst. He revelled in the joy of life’s everyday epiphanies. The sparkle of light on water, bunting flapping in the wind, an azure sky or the joyful anticipation amongst the hubbub of a day at the races – those sublime and yet ordinary moments lie at the heart of Dufy’s work. One large exhibition space is also devoted to his textile designs. Exotic animal and bird prints in vivacious colours look so contemporary that a well-heeled lady from ‘t Gooi could easily wear them to a special occasion today and look fashionable and unique.

Desparate Dutch Housewives
Laren is a picturesque town, in the south eastern corner of North Holland, part of the area, ‘t Gooi, (from het Gouw, the Shire) where media types live and relax. Shops and restaurants cater to the more mature lady with time and money on her hands; colloquially known as Gooise Matrassen. These decadent ladies even had their own TV series, starring Linda de Mol. Holland’s answer to Sex and the City; Gooise Vrouwen, ran from 2004-2009.

Getting There
The Museum Café serves good food, has garden seating, or eat indoors and enjoy the Tiffany lamps and Art Deco interior. Laren is about 20 minutes drive by car from Amsterdam or take the train to Hilversum and catch bus 108 to bus stop, The Brink, Laren. Plan your door to door trip via 9292.nl

 

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Susan Carey – Author Spotlight Interview – Twisted Tales 2014

Photo by David Galsworthy

Photo by David Galsworthy

Interview questions by editor of Twisted Tales, Annie Evett. Read original blog and other writers’ interviews here Twisted Tales will be available from Amazon from 11th October.

The Title of your Flash.

A Gibbous Moon

What was your initial motivation or prompt to write this story? 

I was inspired by a visit to the Museum of Witchcraft in Boscastle, Cornwall. It’s the second story inspired by the visit to the museum so it was a very fruitful afternoon!

Is the character in your story a reoccurring character in your writing?

No, not yet at least. It’s my first attempt at writing about teenagers and although I’m not a parent, my friends who are parents of teenagers tell me I’ve captured adolescent grumpiness well. 

What sort of message or feeling are you hoping you leave your audience with?

It’s a slightly tongue-in-cheek story with some magic realism elements but there is an underlying seriousness about how we treat people who are different from the norm. It’s also about the onset of menstruation which, however liberal we like to think we are, remains a taboo subject.

What sort of stories do you normally write? (Is this story a break from your norm?)

The characters are new for me in that I usually write about adults. There is almost always a brush with the supernatural in my stories so in that sense this piece is in keeping with other writing. 

Why is that?

Because I also write non-fiction, longer fiction and poetry, I dislike pigeon-holing myself. I have always been fascinated by the idea of an afterlife, or a life beyond this one so the supernatural has always had a strong pull. This has resulted in magic realism being the most reoccurring element in my work. 

What projects or new story lines do you have coming up in the near future?

I’m planning to take part in NaNoWrimo, 2014 after having a break from it in 2013. I’m researching the characters, settings and plot right now. I did a wonderful workshop recently with New Zealand writer, Trish Nicholson about creating deep character. Two characters came out of that which I want to use in NaNoWrimo.

Do you enter many competitions for flash fiction?

I’ve entered a few and had some successes here and there. I was shortlisted in the Fish Publishing flash competition and have been featured on National Flash Flood Fiction Day and 1000 words.

Are you a member of a writing group – either online or a physical one?

Both! I’m a member of Writers Abroad which is an online writers’ group aimed at expats. We bring out an anthology every year and this year have launched a magazine. It’s possible to post work-in-progress on the site for critiquing or write to a prompt from our Monday Muse forum. I’m also a member of a small but very committed face-to-face group here in Amsterdam.

Do you think these groups help or hinder a writers journey? Why?

I think they help immensely. Writing is a lonely profession and it’s great to get informed and reliable critiquing. Ideas for stories often arise through interacting with other writers; whether it’s through writing prompts, workshops or competition deadlines. This helps me stop procrastinating and makes me sit down and write!

What encouragement or advice do you have for emerging writers of flash fiction?

Read plenty of flash fiction and don’t be afraid to innovate and experiment. Flash fiction is a literary form that’s still developing. When you’ve finished a piece go back through it and get rid of superfluous words. A lot of adjectives and adverbs can be shed and often the story improves this way. Less or fewer, is definitely more!

How can others follow your journey?

Here at my blog!
Twitter @su_carey

Twisted Tales by RagingAardvark publishing, coming out 11th Oct. Click on cover for more info.

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New Literary Magazine from Ex-pat Writing Group Writers Abroad

I also have poetry and a book review in our free mag! Thanks Vanessa for posting!

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To the Manor Born – The Pony Club and Literary Houses

During a recent visit to England I was invited to a celebration of 70 years of the South Herefordshire & Ross Harriers branch of the Pony Club at a large country estate called The Mynde, in Herefordshire. From the ages of six to around fourteen my sister, Christine Hardinge and I were keen members of the PC, and PC camps were held at The Mynde every summer.

The drive to the Mynde is a mile long and an aristocratic residence has been on the site since the 13th century. It is still owned by a family with royal connections and the Queen helicoptered in for tea on the lawn in 2003! In pony club days the house was derelict, partially razed to the ground by fire. But its grounds are inextricably linked with halcyon days of childhood; swathes of emerald fields, gnarled oaks, swans on mirrored lakes and the sound of ponies hooves mingling with the smells of equine sweat, saddle-soaped leather and Bazooka Joe bubblegum from the tuck shop.

I love a deep-rooted sense of place and preferably a crumbling country mansion at the heart of a novel. When I moved to Holland I was homesick and often dreamed of that sun-dappled drive to The Mynde; a road that led to my ‘land of lost content.’ To assuage those feelings of not belonging I reread novels like Rebecca, Jane Eyre, Wuthering Heights and Wideacre (Phillippa Gregory’s trilogy before The Boleyn Girl) and imagined that I was the homecoming heroine in the story. Novels in which the house is almost a character, not just a backdrop have always grabbed me and perhaps this can be traced back to my early experiences of The Mynde. Right now I’m reading Longbourn, by Jo Baker; Pride and Prejudice retold from the point of view of the servants. It introduces another aspect of the country house, the unseen toils of the servants. Downstairs folk paddling away like a swan’s webbed feet, keeping up the calm, serene elegance of upstairs folk.

Often the crumbling mansion has sinister aspects too. Manderley was so interwoven with Rebecca’s life it had to burn down so that the new Mrs De Winter could reign supreme. Eel Marsh House in The Woman in Black, reveals Alice Drablow’s past and without the house we would know nothing of her tragic life. So maybe there’s a ghost or two rattling about The Mynde and perhaps it’s a little girl wearing elephant-ear Jods, galloping her Welsh Mountain pony towards the furthest edges of the demesne.

Are there any early experiences that have influenced your reading choices? Could you describe a character just by writing about their home? What is your favourite literary house?

For the 1960s riding-wear ad and nostalgic book cover I thank the wonderful author, Jane Badger who blogs about pony books here, Books, Mud and Compost. And Horses

Link to 25 top literary homes at Flavorwire

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Freedom of the Line – Dining Along the River Severn

For Christmas 2013 Frank and I received a wonderful experience gift from my sister and brother-in-law. We were given the freedom of the line on the Severn Valley Railway and a dining voucher for two. I’ve always wanted to travel on the Orient Express but this seemed more within our reach! The Severn Valley Railway is a full-size standard-gauge railway line running regular, mainly steam-hauled, passenger trains between Kidderminster in Worcestershire and Bridgnorth in Shropshire, a distance of about sixteen miles.

The journey is full of interest, as the route follows closely the meandering course of the River Severn for most of the way on its journey between Kidderminster and Bridgnorth. One highlight of the trip is the crossing of the River Severn by means of the Victoria Bridge – a massive 200-foot single span, high above the water which, incidentally, features in the film ‘The Thirty-nine Steps’ with Robert Powell in the leading role. Trains have been a source of inspiration for writers for as long as they exist. The most famous being Murder on the Orient Express by Agatha Christie.

There being few roads in the Severn Valley, some of the views are only visible from the Railway. The scenery is varied and largely unspoiled, punctuated by the quaint ‘olde worlde’ charm of country stations, each one giving ready access to local villages and riverside walks.

A remarkable feature of the Railway not readily appreciated by visitors is that it is very largely run by unpaid volunteers, with a paid staff of around 70 people responsible for administration and commercial activities, plus regular track and rolling stock maintenance. Throughout the year, volunteers appear on the Railway to perform many tasks, including repairing and repainting stations, reconstruction of viaducts and bridges, and rebuilding locomotives and rolling stock not to mention the operation of the trains.

On the dining car we enjoyed a Jacques Tati type holiday atmosphere with jovial serving staff and passengers all enjoying a carefree day. The carriage aahhed in unison at the sight of a baby elephant gamboling in the safari park, not something you expect to see in the Worcestershire countryside!

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The Prince Who Kept Mum – Delving into Delft

Willem de Zwijger, (William the Silent) was the founding father of the Dutch monarchy. Zwijgen is a verb that can’t be translated directly into an English verb. We have the expression, keeping mum, which means the speaker knows about something but chooses not to reveal the information.

The Nickname
Legend has it that while William was out hunting with the King of France, the King revealed the Spanish Duke of Alba’s plans to get rid of all the Protestants in the Netherlands. By keeping mum and pretending to know of the plans already, William discovered the Duke’s plan of attack. William was the main leader of the Dutch revolt against the Spanish that set off the Eighty Years’ War, finally resulting in the formal independence of the United Provinces in 1648.

He became Prince of Orange in 1544, founder of the branch, House of Orange-Nassau and the ancestor of the present monarchy of the Netherlands. Dutch royals are buried in de Nieuwe Kerk in Delft. What Westminster Abbey is to the English Royal family, de Nieuwe Kerk is to the Dutch royal family. Old Will was a big cheese, quite good looking in his youth and he has one mighty mausoleum to prove it!

Mini-Bruges
Delft is a very picturesque and compact city, a sort of mini-Bruges, but minus the hordes of tourists. The people are friendly and laid back. You’ll notice that the water level of the canals is much higher than in Amsterdam. This is very pleasing to the eye and visually the water is better integrated into the cityscape.

Vermeer
Its connection with the artist, Vermeer also attracts a lot of visitors. Since the book and the film of ‘The Girl with the Pearl Earring,’ Vermeer’s popularity has grown and Delft is a pilgrimage for art lovers. You can visit The Vermeer Centre and discover how he mastered his unique depiction of light. We didn’t because my husband said he was getting a bit tired of the endless depictions of ‘The Girl With the Pearl Earring,’ and besides it was beer o’ clock…

Great places to eat, drink and lay your head
de Plantaan Hotel. Huge bar where you can sit for ages in a deep armchair and look out onto the beautiful sycamore tree. Themed rooms offer an exotic sleepover for the very tired tourist.

‘t Postkantoor is the former post office building transformed into a retro restaurant with fifties style decor. Outside there’s a lovely terrace, with Far Eastern-inspired patio furniture. Great food in an unusual setting.

 

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